| With "Bill Cunningham New York ", Richard Press has created a simple and engaging film about Bill Cunningham, an octogenarian fashion photographer. It is full of interviews with notable people who are keen to hold forth on Mr. Cunningham's contributions to fashion and photography. But the man himself has some unexpected charms. A good-natured aesthete from a Catholic, working-class family, he spent decades as a resident of the Carnegie Hall studios, living in a tiny room crammed with a single bed and filing cabinets stuffed with negatives. In an especially poignant scene, he admits that he has never had a romantic relationship. He still goes to church. |
理查德?普萊斯執(zhí)導(dǎo)的傳記電影《街拍鼻祖比爾》情節(jié)簡單卻引人入勝，主人公比爾?坎寧漢姆是一位有著八十多歲高齡的時裝攝影師。影片中，接受采訪的各界名人都熱切地大談特談坎寧漢姆先生對時尚和攝影界的貢獻；不過，這位攝影師本人就具有一些讓人意想不到的魅力。他出生在一個信奉天主教的工人家庭；作為一位審美家，他性情溫和，曾在卡耐基音樂廳樓上的工作室里一住就是數(shù)十年，那個狹小的單間公寓里除了一張單人床，滿滿當當?shù)亩际菣n案柜，里面裝滿了他拍照的底片。電影里播放了一個特別辛酸的畫面，坎寧漢姆先生坦言自己從未開始過一段戀情。一直到現(xiàn)在，他還堅持去教堂做禮拜。 |
| No fan of "cookie cutter" fashion, Mr. Cunningham has been an important chronicler of style for decades. He hovers on street corners awaiting signs of a burgeoning trend, which he documents in his "On the Street" column. "I let the street speak to me," he says. "There are no short cuts." His own sparse wardrobe consists of the same blue jackets worn by Parisian street cleaners. He rides his bike in this humble uniform, careening precariously (and without a helmet) through Manhattan's traffic in search of the perfect shot. |
坎寧漢姆先生對那種俗套的時尚并不感冒。作為數(shù)十年來紐約風尚的重要記錄者，他在街角逗留守候，捕捉新興的時尚風潮，并將其刊登在他的攝影專欄“在街頭”上。“我的靈感來自街頭巷尾，”他說，“別無捷徑可循。”他自己的衣服少得可憐，全都是巴黎街頭清潔工穿的那種藍色夾克。穿著這種簡樸的制服，他騎著單車顫巍巍地穿梭于曼哈頓街頭，連頭盔都不戴，一心尋找著最佳拍攝鏡頭。 |
| He snaps socialites, philanthropists, hipsters, dandies, artists and fashionistas for his "Evening Hours" column. Mr. Press's film includes interviews with some of these colorful characters, such as Shail Upadhya, a retired Nepalese diplomat who wears outrageously patterned suits, and Iris Apfel, a quirkily bespectacled 89-year-old fashion muse. |
他還給社會名流、慈善家、時髦人群、花花公子、藝術(shù)家及時尚達人拍照，作品刊登在 “晚宴時分”專欄上。在普萊斯先生的這部電影里，就有對其中一些鮮明人物的采訪，包括退休的尼泊爾外交官Shail Upadhya，他常穿著那種夸張的帶有圖案的套裝；還有89歲的時尚女神艾瑞斯?阿普菲爾，她總是戴著那副看上去稀奇古怪的眼鏡。 |
| Everyone seems to love Mr. Cunningham, from Brooke Astor (shown at her 100th birthday party) to the staff at events. Even Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, defrosts around him. "We all get dressed for Bill," she says with a smile. |
每個人似乎都喜愛坎寧漢姆先生，無論是已故的布魯克?艾斯特（從她的100周歲生日宴會上可以看到），還是各種時尚活動的參與人員；甚至連美國《時尚》雜志的主編安娜?溫圖爾都被他打動，“我們都為比爾著盛裝，” 她微笑著說道。 |
| Mr. Cunningham says he wanders around fashion shows hoping to see some "marvelous exotic bird of paradise". His egalitarian spirit persists, even at the Paris shows. "If a normal woman can't wear it, I'm not interested," he says. |
坎寧漢姆先生表示，他出入各種時裝秀，希望能看到某種“奇特的極樂鳥”。他始終堅持鏡頭前人人平等的原則，哪怕是在巴黎時裝展上。“一件衣服，如果普通的女性穿不了，我就不會有興趣，”他說。
（China.org.cn Wendy 譯）
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